The JJJ&E Logo

Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Using Peco Flex Code 80/55 Flex Track With Unitrack




I used Peco Code 80/55 Flex Track with Unitrack in the Turntable area of the "new" JJJ&E as well as on some longer sidings. The flex track is used to join two approach tracks from the Switching Yard to the lip of the Turntable. You just use Kato Uni-Joiners to join the Peco Flex track to Unitrack. Regular rail joiners aren't necessary. You also need some cork roadbed to place under the Peco Flex track. You don't need the cork roadbed as the Peco Flex Track approaches the lip of the Turntable. The rails of the Peco Flex track must sit firmly on the lip of the Turntable.

You can also use other brands of flex track such as Atlas flex track or Atlas track sections.

In the photo below you see the use of Peco Flex track with Unitrack ( See Photo  # 1 ).. The two approach tracks to the turntable are Peco Flex track joined to Unitrack using a Unitrack rail joiner.

If you do use Atlas track with Unitrack, you must use a conventional rail joiner to connect Atlas sectional or flex track to the Unitrack.

I used Arizona Rock & Mineral N scale Black Cinder yard ballast to ballast all holding tracks adjacent to the turntable ( See Photo  # 4 ).

Photo  # 1  Peco Code 80/55 Flex Track easily mates with Kato Unitrack. I used the Peco Flex Track in the stalls of the 24 stall Roundhouse and on holding tracks adjacent to the turntable.
     Photo  # 2  Overhead view showing the 10 holding tracks and two connecting tracks to the Switching Yard. The 24 stalls of the Roundhouse also has Peco Flex Track in each stall.
Photo  # 3 An old sepia photo showing steam locomotives on the holding tracks adjacent to the turntable.
Photo  # 4 The Peco Flex Track is easily ballasted. I used Arizona Rock & Mineral N scale Black Cinder Yard Ballast on all sidings and yard tracks on the "New" JJJ&E.

Saturday, November 10, 2012

Unitrack/Other Brands Of Track And Woodland Scenic Risers




Many track plans incorporate grades in the plan. This isn't a hard problem to solve if you use Woodland Scenic Risers. the Risers come in 2%, 3% and 4% grades.

Have planned and set up many layouts in all scales in over sixty years of model railroading, I found that its best to keep grades limited to 2% or less. If you choose a steeper grade this causes limitations on the performance of your locomotives as they work their way up the grade. It also limits the number of cars locomotives can pull up the grade. To solve this problem you add multi-consist locomotives together or provide a "helper" to assist the lead locomotive pull the consist of cars up the grade.

For helpers, I used a "Cheater Boxcar" that is powered on the "Original" JJJ&E. This will be discussed in another post.

But for now, lets stick to the topic of WS Risers and Unitrack/other brands of track. After the track work is laid out on your bench work, you can trace the outline of the track where the grade occurs. For a true 2% grade you will need sixteen feet of track. It will take about eight feet to go up 2% (100 inches) and about eight feet to go back down to level track. After the outline of the track is marked, you lay out the WS Risers. To secure the Risers in place use a hot glue gun and place a dab of the hot glue every twelve to eighteen inches until the grade is completely finished. Then you can lay the Unitrack on top of the Risers. You can use a dab of hot glue under the Unitrack roadbed to secure the Unitrack to the Riser. If you have a turnout in the grade do not secure the turnout to the riser. Let it "float" freely.

After the track work is securely in place on the risers, test the grade with all your locomotives and see how each locomotive performs on the grade.

WS sells a 2% grade kit that rises four inches. In this case you need 16 feet to reach the four inch height and sixteen feet to get back down to level track. You don't have to use the entire kit to get the 2% grade. You can go up two inches which is a little over eight feet and then go back down to level track in eight feet.

You can reduce the grade to less than 2% by using individual risers that keep the grade at a certain level for a longer run. You can use Risers that keep the grade height at two inches and increase the grade to 24 feet ( 12 feet up and 12 feet down) This reduces the stress on each locomotive up the grade which is now reduced to less than 2%. Thats what I'm doing on the "new" JJJ&E.

On the "original" JJJ&E, the grade was 2% and rose over 7 1/2 inches at the high point on the grade. In that case it took over 36 feet to go up the grade and over 36 feet to go down the grade. In effect, the "original" JJJ&E was a long nolix. Wiking (Alan) who uses Unitrack saw the "original" JJJ&E in person and saw the effect of this long grade on many of my locomotives. As a matter of fact, he ran several of his locomotives up the long 2% grades on the "original" JJJ&E. Alan uses grades on his Unitrack layout. Many other members of different forums have seen the "Original" JJJ&E in action over the nine plus years it was in operation.

On the "New" JJJ&E which is 95% scenicked and fully operational, I have a  1 1/2% grade on the outer mainline track starting in the turnaround area east of San Marino. The grade winds through the Monterrey Mountains and continues down to the town of San Marino behind the San Marino freight yard. I modified the Woodland Scenic Risers so the maximum grade would be 1 1/2%. The length of this 1 1/2% grade is  about 30 feet.

Photo  # 1 Woodland Scenic Risers hot glued in place on the outer mainline track of the "New" JJJ&E
Photo  # 2 Another view of the Woodland Scenic Risers at the start of the 1 1/2% grade in San Marino
Photo  # 3  The 1 1/2% grade as it declines back to level track behind San Marino
Photo  #  4  The 1 1/2%  grade descends behind the town of San Marino
Photo  # 5  All locomotives on the roster must be tested on the 1 1/2% grade.
All locomotives on the roster of the "new" JJJ&E were tested on this 1 1/2% grade to make sure each locomotive could handle this grade with a full consist of freight/passenger cars. In the event some locomotives can't handle the grade There is another route for these locomotives to follow on a flat passing siding which is seen in Photo # 5.

The next few photo's show the graded mainline tracks completely weathered and ballasted.

        Photo  # 6  Denver & Rio Grande F-7's on the outer mainline track with the 1 1/2% grade. A Milwaukee Hiawatha # 1 is on the inner passing siding that is level.

        Photo  # 7  A PRR GG-1 with its heavyweight consist of passenger cars is on the graded outer mainline track. A Milwaukee Hiawatha # 1 is on the inner passing siding that is level.
Photo  # 8  Completely weathered and ballasted  graded outer mainline track. The two inner mainline tracks in this turnaround area are level. These tracks are for locomotives that can't negotiate the 1/2% grade on the outer mainline.
Photo  # 9  A closer look at the outer mainline track which has the 1 1/2% grade.
Photo # 10 This the highest point on the graded outer mainline track heading back to San Marino.
 If you do decide to add grades to your layout, it requires careful planning. By adding grades with Woodland Scenic Risers, you also enhance the scenic possibilities on your layout with changes in elevation. These grades will changes the dynamics of any layout and will make it more interesting to operate.

Monday, November 5, 2012

Wiring Unitrack Turnouts To Stationary Decoders Or Lenz Accessory Modules




The Unitrack turnouts are easy to wire with stationary decoders or with a Lenx accessory module which can control four turnouts or six turnouts depending on the model. I no longer think Lenz sells the LS-100/110 modules which are the accessory module I bought over nine years ago. the newer module is the LS-150.

The Digitrax DS51k1 will control 1 Unitrack turnout. The first thing that is done is to program the Decoder with the wiring from the turnout and track. After the programming is done you connect the black and red wires to the track from the decoder and the other two wires from the stationary decoder are connected the wiring from the turnout. The programming wire , disconnected after programming the decoder remains "free'

The Digitrax DS 51k1 decoders will be mounted under the bench work below the corresponding turnout they control. The instructions that come with the Digitrax DS 51k1 stationary decoder is straight forward

NCE also makes a stationary decoder called a Switch-Kat which controls one Unitrack turnout. It has to be programmed and then wired in the same manner as the Digitrax51k1.

You cannot use the Digitrax DS51k1 to control the Kato double crossover, because the double crossover consumes too much momentary power when all four turnouts are switched which is the only way the double crossover works. For the double crossover, use a Lenz accessory module which can control six turnouts. However the Lenz module is strong enough to power the double crossover on one of its six outputs. There is still room on the Lenz module to control either five other single Unitrack turnouts or five more individual double crossovers.

I used the Lenz accessory module long before I used stationary decoders. The newer Lenz modules can now control six turnouts. It is an LS-150.


Photo # 1 Lenz LS150

For about $8 per turnout you can now have full DCC control of your layout's switch machines!
Introducing the DIGITAL plus by Lenz LS150 turnout decoder, designed for cost effective turnout control for up to 6 independent turnouts.

Specifications include:

*For control of any combination of 6 Atlas, Bachman, Kato, LGB, Peco, Tortoise, or other popular brands of twin-coil snap action or motorized switch machines.


I used the Lenz LS 100/110 on the "original" JJJ&E pictured below. It can control four turnouts.

Photo  #  2  Lenz LS100/110

You can also use a Digitrax DS-64 to control four individual turnouts and a Unitrack double crossover. I've used the Digitrax DS-64 and the Digitrax DS-52 to control individual switches/turnouts and double crossovers. The Unitrack double crossover ( four individual switches ) can be wired to one terminal of a Digitrax DS-64 or Digitrax DS-52.


Photo  # 3  Digitrax DS-64


Sunday, November 4, 2012

Steam Locomotive Break-In Period For N Scale




Most N scale steam locomotives require an extensive break-in period which is partially due to all of the moving parts of the locomotive. A new steam locomotive should at first be run at various speeds and in both directions without a load for at least three hours. As the amount of running time increases you can gradually add cars for the locomotive to pull and push.

Most Bachmann Spectrum locomotives require more than three hours of running time for the locomotive to be initially "broken in". The locomotive must run at various speeds in both directions without a load during this initial break-in period.  Steam locomotives reach their optimum performance after 15-20 hours of running time ( See Photo  # 1 ).

Photo  # 1 Bachmann Spectrum Southern 2-8-0 on a siding west of San Marino
There is one caveat to remember when running steam locomotives. If the locomotive is stored away for several weeks without any running time after an extensive break-in period, this break-in period must be done again to a lesser degree to again reach optimum performance. Unfortunately this is the norm for most N scale steam locomotives. You must take into consideration all the moving parts in a N scale steam locomotive.

This is also true for the Kato Mikado ( See Photo # 2 ). With an increased break-in period the performance of the Kato Mikado and most steam locomotives improves dramatically. This happens after about 15-20 hours of running time.The Kato Mikado will perform admirably after a  traction tire driver is installed on the # 4 driver. This is an add-on installation. The traction tire driver must be purchased separately and isn't included with the Kato Mikado. You can also add a second traction tire driver to the # 2 driver. This will increase performance by another 10% on average. Your results will vary depending on the locomotive and especially the condition of your track. The track must be free of dirt and debris.

Photo  # 2  Southern Ms-4 Mikado on the mainline in the center of San Marino
One of the only N scale steam locomotives that doesn't require a break-in period and can be run with a full load of cars right out of the box is the MDC/Athearn 2-8-0. This small 2-8-0 is an extraordinary small steam locomotive. The motor is located in the tender. If you want a fine small steam locomotive, this small 2-8-0 is the one to purchase. They are only made by Athearn as MDC was taken over by Athearn several years ago. New releases of the Athearn 2-8-0 haven't happened in awhile. If you do find one in good running order, it's worth a purchase.

If you do get a new steam locomotive or have one that hasn't been run in quite a while, I suggest performing a significant break-in period for that steam locomotive in order to obtain optimum performance.

Some of the newer steam locomotives such as the Athearn "Challenger" and "Big Boy" and the Intermountain Cab Forward AC-12 require less of a break-in period ( See Photo's  # 3, # 4 & # 5 ). The newer Bachmann Spectrum releases also require a shorter break-in period.

Photo  # 3  UP "Challenger"  # 3985 on the mainline in the center of San Marino
Photo  # 4  UP "Big Boy" #4006 on the mainline with the town of San Marino in the background
Photo  #  5  SP AC Cab Forward # 4287 on a mainline track with the Switching Yard in the background




Saturday, November 3, 2012

Transforming A Generic Kato Mikado Into A CB&Q 0-4 Mikado Using A GHQ Pewter Detail Kit

  Transforming A Generic Kato Mikado Into A CB&Q 0-4 Mikado Using A GHQ Pewter Detail Kit

This pewter detail kit was recently re-released by GHQ and is one of the easiest of the detail kits to work with. The Kit comes in a bag of unlabeled bag of pewter detail pieces with no instructions ( See photo  # 1 ). Also included in the kit are various sizes of brass wire. The instructions can be downloaded at the GHQ website or at the link below.

http://www.ghqmodels.com/forum/

Photo  #  1  Pewter Detail Parts In CB&Q  O4 Mikado Conversion Kit

This text was taken from the CB&Q instructions. It's a brief history of this steam locomotive.

The 0-4 class is quite interesting. It is a USRA Heavy Mike, of course. That’s why Kato had a Burlington paint scheme in their original release. The “Q” bought 15 of them in 1919 numbered 5500 – 5514. But, as is the usual case with USRA’s, by the time they lasted into the transition era (our favorite period) they looked quite different. By the 1930’s they were all oil burners with bunkers in the tenders and all had feedwater heaters.

Numbers 5503, 5505, 5506, 5510, 5511 5512, and 5514 had Elesco feedwater heaters. The rest had Worthingtons.

The Fort Worth and Denver, a Burlington subsidiary, class E4A2 #451 through $455, also USRA Mikes, wee quite similar, with oil bunkers, but without feedwater heaters. Toward the end of the steam era, FW&D leased #5502 and #5514 from the Burlington.

The 0-4 Mikes were some of the last steam active anywhere in the United States. The Burlington sold six to the Colorado & Southern, their subsidiary, in June of 1957. They served there until 1960 under power and were then scraped. They were numbered 804 through 809.

While on the Burlington, all 15 spent most of their lives on the Casper, Sterling and Alliance divisions. 



Now for the detailing of this interesting CB&Q 0-4 Mikado. This GHQ kit is one of the easier GHQ pewter kits to detail when you follow the limited instructions which can be downloaded from the GHQ website.


Photo  # 2 Generic Kato Mikado before adding GHQ pewter detail parts
Photo  # 3 Overhead view of CG&Q 0-4 locomotives with pewter detail parts added.
Photo  # 4  CB&Q 0-4 Mikado's on engineers side of the locomotive with pewter detail parts added

Photo  # 5 CB&Q 0-4 Mikado's on fireman's side of the locomotive with pewter detail parts added
Photo  # 6  Closeup overhead view of the CB&Q 0-4's boiler with GHQ pewter detail parts added
Photo  # 7  Closeup overhead view of the CB&Q 0-4 tenders showing all the GHQ detail parts added


All the pewter GHQ detail parts and associated brass piping added to both CB&Q 0-4 Mikado's See Photo's # 2 through # 7 ).


Photo  #  8  A view of the front of the boiler of the CB&Q  0-4 Mikado showing the detail pewter parts added on the mainline track in the Monterrey Mountains east of San Marino.
Photo # 9  A lateral view of the engineers side of the CB&Q 0-4 Mikado showing all the GHQ pewter detail parts added
Photo  # 10  A lateral view of the CB&Q 0-4 Mikado locomotive and tender showing all the GHQ pewter detail parts and brass piping added
Photo  # 11  A lateral view of the CB&Q 0-4 on the fireman's side showing all the GHQ pewter detail parts and brass piping added.
Photo  # 12  A side view of the CB&Q 0-4 Mikado on the fireman's side showing all the GHQ pewter detail parts added. The town of San Marino can be seen in the distance.
Photo  # 13  A lateral view of the CB&Q 0-4 Mikado's on the fireman's side showing all the pewter detail parts and piping added to the locomotive and tender.
Photo  # 14  A panoramic view of CB&Q  #5502 & #5504 0-4 Mikado's on the mainline track with the town of San Marino in the background.
Photo  # 15  A closeup view of CB&Q 0-4 Mikado # 5502 on the fireman's side of the locomotive with the town of San Marino in the background.
Photo  # 16  A closeup view of CB&Q 0-4 Mikado # 5506 on the engineers side of the locomotive with the town of San Marino in the background.

Photo  # 17   A closeup view of CB&Q 0-4 Mikado # 5506 on the fireman's side of the locomotive with the town of San Marino in the background.
Photo  # 18 A closeup view of the CB&Q 0-4 Mikado's intricate Feed Water Heater and associated piping on the engineer's side of the locomotive.
Photo  # 19 A closeup view of a CB&Q #5504 0-4 Mikado on the engineers side of the locomotive showing all the GHQ pewter detail parts and piping. The locomotive is on a siding west of San Marino.
Photo  # 20 An old time classic photo showing a panoramic view of CB&Q # 5502 & # 5504 0-4 Mikado's on the mainline in the center of San Marino.























Guidelines To Follow When Building A Laser Cut Building Kit





Photo  # 1   The Town Of San Marino On The Upper level Of The "Original" JJJ&E

 This article was published in the January/February 2008 issue of N Scale Magazine.

When I first started building the "Original" JJJ&E over seven years ago, the main structures I used on the layout were Walthers plastic building kits. I built about a half dozen of these kits and soon became disenchanted with them. Eventually each structure managed to be completed and, after weathering, they all found places on the "Original" JJJ&E.

I then started to build laser cut building structures for the "Original" JJJ&E and have used them ever since as the primary building structures for the layout.

Many companies today make quality N scale laser cut building kits. American Model Builders, Bar Mills, Blair Lines, N Scale Architects and Model Tech Studios are just a few of the major players in the N scale laser cut building arena. Most of the laser cut buildings on the "Original" JJJ&E are from N Scale Architect, Bar Mills and American Model Builders.

As I completed many of these laser cut building kits, I developed a series of guidelines to use. I found these guidelines very helpful and can be used for any laser cut building kit with minute variations.

I'm going to use American Model Builders Glenwood # 2 Oil Derrick as an example in explaining my guidelines to follow ( See Photo  # 1 ). This structure has very finely detailed parts and is a very interesting addition to any layout.

Photo  # 2  American Model Builders Glenwood No. 2 Oil Derrick
The most important guideline to follow is to read the instructions very carefully before you start building the kit. You should read them two or three times to get a full understanding of how to put the kit together. Not following this guideline will make eventual satisfactory completeion of the kit very difficult and at times, aggravating.

You must make sure you have all the parts listed in the instruction sheets. You don't want to find out after you've started building the kit that parts are missing or broken. If you find that some parts are missing or broken, contact the manufacturer of the kit directly, They will gladly replace any missing or broken parts if they are notified of the problem.

Next, follow the instructions very carefully. There is usually a reason for the sequence of instructions when building a laser cut building kit.

Before you airbrush any of the laser cut building parts, brace the larger laser cut pieces with small scraps of balsa wood that you may have in your scrap box. I usually save extra pieces of wood from all the kits I've built for the "Original" JJJ&E. I glue these scrap pieces of wood to the backside of each of the larger parts with Aileen's wood glue ( See Photo  # 3 ). This will help prevent any warping when the laser cut pieces are air brushed with a primer on both sides.

Photo  # 3  Aileen's Wood Glue

The Glenwood # 2 Oil Derrick laser cut building kit deviates slightly from the last guideline. The parts are so fine that its impossible to brace the individual pieces. When it comes time to airbrush these parts with a primer, they must be airbrushed with very light coats of paint..

The laser cut parts should be lightly airbrushed while attached to the parts board with a primer. Airbrushing the parts on both sides will eliminate most of the warping that might occur. In the case of the Glenwood # 2 Oil Derrick kit, I found a primer that would be suitable for a final color ( See Photo's # 3, # 4 and # 5 ).

Photo  # 4 Parts Board For Oil Derrick
     Photo  # 5  Parts Board For Oil Derrick
             Photo  # 6  Parts Board For Oil Derrick
After the prime coat is dry ( usually 24-36 hours ), you can airbrush a final coat of paint on the laser cut pieces. In the case of the Glenwood # 2 Oil Derrick, I lightly airbrushed a second primer coat, as this was to be the final coat of paint. I used an 18/0 very fine sable brush to touch up any irregularities in the final coat..

Now you are ready to build the kit after waiting for the final coat of paint to dry ( 24 hours ).

When gluing the laser cut pieces together, use a wood glue that sets up fairly rapidly. As I said previously, I use Aileen's wood glue ( See Photo  # 3 ). There are other wood glues on the market that could also be used. On rare occasions, you can use CA cement when an immediate bond is required.

After the laser cut building structure is completed, you can touch up the structure by hand painting any areas that need attention.

You can now weather your building kit with earth tone washes and/or Bragdon Weathering powders. In the case of the Glenwood # 2 Oil Derrick, I lightly dry brushed the wood floor of the kit with Rail Tie Brown and Black. I also used Bragdon Weathering powders in this area. I didn't touch the oil derrick structure itself, as the parts were too thin and delicate anyd any dry brushing would cause undue warping of these fine parts. I did add some Bragdon Weathering powders to the oil derrick structure ( See Photo's  # 7, # 8 & #9 ). Woodland Scenics figures were also placed on the structure.

        Photo  # 7  Bragdon Weathering Powders Added To Oil Derrick Structure Along With Woodland Scenics Figures
     Photo  # 8   Bragdon Weathering Powders Added To Oil Derrick Structure Along With Woodland Scenics Figures
        Photo  # 9   Bragdon Weathering Powders Added To Oil Derrick Structure Along With Woodland Scenics Figures
Now its time to place the finished Glenwood # 2 Oil Derrick on the layout and add scenic touches near the building foundation. At this time, the "original" JJJ&E is undergoing a fourth expansion and the Glenwood # 2 Oil Derrick has been placed in a temporary position the layout ( See Photo # 10 ).
           Photo  # 10  Glenwood # 2 Oil Derrick Placed In Temporary Position On The Layout
         Photo  # 11 The Glenwood # 2 Oil Derrick Can be Seen In The Distance Above The Tree Line

The Glenwood # 2 Oil Derrick can be seen in the background of the layout above the tree line ( Photo # 11 ).

Laser cut building kits take many hours to finish and weather. The first laser cut kit  I built for the "Original" JJJ&E was the Fish Pier, which has become one of the "signature" buildings on the "Original" JJJ&E. The Fish Pier is located near the St. Albans Tunnel on the lower level of the layout. It took 14 hours to complete, weather and place on the layout ( See Photo # 12 & # 12A ). The double track mainline can be seen in the background. Preiser and Woodland Scenics action figures were added to to the scene to make the structure look more realistic. Adding water around the Fish Pier also adds to the realism.

Photo  # 12  The Fish Pier Is One Of The "Signature" Buildings On The "Original" JJJ&E
              Photo  # 12A  The Fish Pier Is One Of The "Signature" Buildings On The "Original" JJJ&E

In the main Switching Yard on the "Original" JJJ&E is a Gear Factory, a small water tank and a sanding station that have been completely weathered and in place on the layout. Foundation scenery hasn't yet been added to completely finish the three structures (See Photo  # 13 ). Some of the Unitrack in Photo # 13 hasn't been weathered and ballasted. The two track siding is part of the fourth addition to the layout.

             Photo  # 13   The Gear Factory, Small Water Tower & Sanding Station In Place In Switching Yard
An Ice Station is also temporarily in place in the Switching Yard. This area is still a work in progress. The backdrop seam has to be hidden by adding trees against the backdrop. The Ice Station and platform is also a delicate structure and care must be taken in airbrushing this structure. Woodland Scenics action figures have also been added to the Ice Station ( Photo # 14 ). This laser cut building kit is made by North East Models and was a great kit to put together.

    Photo # 14  Ice Station And Platform In Switching Yard
The Unitrack in the background of Photo # 14 hasn't been weathered and ballasted yet. Ground scenery also has to be added to complete the scene.

More laser cut structures have been placed on part of the fourth addition to the "Original" JJJ&E adjacent to the St. Albans Tunnel ( See Photo # 15 ).   
      Photo  # 15 Laser Cut Buildings Added To Fourth Addition Adjacent To The St. Albans Tunnel
 Finally we see part of the town of San Marino on the upper level of the "Original" JJJ&E. These buildings are all laser cut buildings . The distinctive building with the corrugated  metal roof is "The Idaho Hotel", another "signature" building on the layout. The "Idaho Hotel" is a limited run ( 250 ) laser cut building kit made by Bar Mills. All of these buildings have been weathered and detailed ( See Photo # 16 )

  Photo  # 16 All The Buildings In This Photo Are Laser Cut Buildings. This Is The Center Of San Marino.
Laser cut buildings are fun to build and weather. They add "character" to a layout as you can see when viewing the structures in San Marino  on the "Original" JJJ&E ( Photo  # 16).

Try to build a laser cut building kit soon. You'll be pleasantly surprised with the finished product.

Stay cool and run steam..........