Building A Retaining Wall In The Corner Of Your Layout On Your Work Bench

Building A Retaining Wall In The Corner Of Your Layout On Your Work Bench


In the corner of one part of my layout, I decided to build a retaining wall. Since my bench work is 30 inches wide on each side of the corner of the "new" JJJ&E, reaching into the corner required standing on a small step stool and reach across to that area which was a 46 inch reach to say the least.

Then I had a brain storm. Build the retaining wall on my work bench, completely scenick the top of the retaining wall area and then cement the finished wall to the place in the far left corner of the layout.

What I did first was to cut out a quarter section of one inch pink foam and shape it to fit the corner of the layout room. Once I tested the fit of the foam and was satisfied with the results, I proceeded to build the retain wall with Woodland Scenics N scale stone plaster retaining wall sections. I cemented these plaster retaining wall sections to the foam shape that I cut for the top of the wall. I used Ailene's Sticky white glue to hold the plaster retaining wall sections to the foam support. To this date the glue has held in place (almost eight years). I then fitted the retaining wall and foam support in place in the left corner of the layout.

Now, it was time to color the retaining wall sections with earth coloring. I first used ochre, some very diluted grimy black and burnt sienna and burnt umber to color the random stones of the retaining wall. I then placed some finished oil wheel kits, shrubbery, trees and figures to complete the scene.

Below are some finished photo's of the retaining wall in place on the left corner of the layout behind the Marino.

diesel service yard and adjacent to the mainline tracks entering the Switching Yard from San

This retaining wall is easy to build on your work bench, than trying to build it in place in a far corner of a layout.  Have fun with it.

 

How To Make River Beds, Streams And Lakes Using Future's Floor Wax And Modge Podge

---

Making River beds, streams and lakes with Futures Floor Wax is an easy procedure. You can get Future's Floor Wax at any supermarket or Home Goods store such as Home Depot or Lowe's. The cost is nominal compared to the cost of Realistic Water by Woodland Scenics. Also to be noted, the Futures Floor Wax won't shrink or change dimension after it is poured and set up.

On the "new" JJJ&E, I used four inches of pink foam on top of a 3/4" plywood base. I cut out a river/stream bed and lined the riverbed/stream bed with Hydrocal. I mixed the hydrocal and removed any air bubbles in the mix, by tapping the mixing bowel on a firm surface such as a work bench. Any air bubbles in the hydrocal mix will rise to the surface. This is the technique I learned in Dentistry as I practiced Prosthetic Dentistry for over 30 years and used all kinds of hydrocal/plaster every day. The resultant hydrocal mix which was firm, was poured into the River bed and allowed to set up overnight.

Once the river bed was set up I used two colors for the River bed. An earth color around the periphery and grimy black for the rest of the River bed. I don't use the color blue or green at all. Again, I let this dry overnight. After the paint has I dried I paint the Futures Floor Was into the River bed. I let this first pour of the Futures Floor Wax completely dry overnight. I again paint Future's Floor Wax on the River bed two or three times, letting it dry completely after each pour. Before the final pour I add gravel stones along the river bank as well as some fallen branches into the River bed.

Then I make the final pour. Instead of painting in the final pour, I pour in small amounts of the Futures Floor Wax into the Riverbed, so the Futures Floor Wax wets the gravel and stones on the edge of the Riverbed.

I let this set up for at least another 24-36 hours. At this point I take some Modge Podge and paint some on the rivers surface in a swirl like manner (almost half moon) in the direction you want the river/stream/lake to flow. Let this completely dry, approximately another 18-24 hours. You then can assess the way the river/stream/lake looks and can always add more Modge Podge.

Here are the results of this technique. The Fish Pier was built over 13 years ago and was used on the "original" JJJ&E. It was the signature building on that layout.

The Monterrey River In The Monterrey River Valley A panoramic view of the Boat House, Monterrey River with San Marino in the background. An overview of the Boat House and the Monterrey River. There is plenty of activity at the Boat House. This part of the Monterrey River feeds into the river under the Fish Pier. A close overhead view of the Boat House & Monterrey River in the Monterrey Mountains. The Boat House and Monterrey River is nestled in the Monterrey River Valley.

Replacing The Pit Electronics In A Walthers 130' Turntable

Replacing The Pit Electronics In A Walthers 130' Turntable

Turn the new pit upside down and loosen the four screws at the center of the pit.

Make sure the plastic channel is free to move. The channel runs along the bottom of the pit and holds the wires that connect to the sensor.

Turn the pit right side up and push the sensor housing out of the wall in the pit.

Turn the pit upside down and remove the round plastic housing that holds the fingers.

Be careful not to pull the wires off of the sensor or fingers when handling the sensor.

When installing the new electronics in the old pit, hold the round plastic housing in place and tighten the screws half way.

Insert the plastic channel under the round housing. Make sure it can move freely.

Next, push the sensor housing into the opening in the wall of the pit. There’s a ledge on the front of the sensor housing. Sometimes it is a tight fit so take your time.

After reinserting the new sensor make sure the housing is flush with the inside wall and the bottom of the pit.

Tighten the screws.